In the newly launched Radiomir8 Days Ceramica & mdash; 45mm 8-day power reserve ceramic watch, Panerai will use high-tech ceramic materials and Panerai independently developed by the Neuchâtel watch factory The manually wound P.2002 / 3 movement is subtly combined.

Ceramics have unique appearance and excellent hardness, scratch resistance, corrosion resistance and high temperature resistance. In recent years, it has become one of the materials of choice in the high-end watch industry. Panerai uses zirconia (ZrO2) as the synthetic ceramic for the Radiomir 8 Days Ceramica & mdash; 45mm 8-day power reserve ceramic watch case. This material is made of powdered raw materials through an isostatic process. The appearance is very even and smooth. Panerai’s manual-winding P.2002 / 3 movement has an 8-day power reserve. It not only has three barrels, it also has a linear power reserve display on the dial. In addition to the date at the 3 o’clock position, the movement is equipped with a special device that allows the wearer to quickly and individually adjust the hour hand without adjusting the minute hand.

The Radiomir 8 Days Ceramica & mdash; 45 mm 8-day power reserve ceramic watch has an all-black look, whether it is the dial with the signature sandwich construction of the pillow-shaped ceramic case, or the DLC (diamond-like carbon) coated titanium The buckled buffalo straps are in black. The appearance of the dial chassis is in harmony with the overall design. Through the sapphire glass window, you can see the exquisite movement details. All iconic elements on the dial, including large numbers and hours, hands and small seconds at 9 o’clock, date window, and linear power reserve display, are covered with a special layer of light brown Super & mdash; LumiNova? Luminous material.

Radiomir 8 Days Ceramica & mdash; 45mm 8-day power reserve ceramic watch (PAM00384) belongs to the historical series (Historic Collec-tion), limited to 700 pieces.

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‘In 1996, when I finally started running my own brand, I was 58 years old. Age is not a problem, I just hope that the experience and knowledge in the watch industry for so many years can be used by me …’ An exclusive interview with Roger Dubuis at the Geneva Table Fair in 2013. The old man’s face was ruddy and smiling, and he was very approachable. However, his unhurried talk and clear thinking always reminded reporters— —This is a master who worked for half a century in front of the watchmaking table.

Roger Dubuis

Since the Roger Dubuis brand was founded in 1996, Roger Dubuis has created a rapidly rising watch legend in just 16 years. ‘I originally thought that the brand should be just a watchmaking workshop that employs 15 people. But everything went smoothly, which also gave me more confidence and allowed me to go further.’ Du Bi recalled. When he talked humbly about his ideals many years ago, the Swiss watch brand, located just outside Geneva, already had more than 350 employees, and for the watchmaker himself, after five years of retirement, he was also Not long ago, I returned to the brand of the same name I created, and once again became the soul of the watchmaking team.

Roger Dubuis 2013 Eagle in front of the Geneva showroom
Devoted his life to watchmaking

Roger Dubuis was born in 1938 in a small village on the shore of Lake Geneva, a half-hour drive from Geneva. At the age of 10, Roger Dubuy became friends with a cobbler in the village who also managed the local church bell. As he grew older, he asked Roger Dubbie to help him, and he was exposed to an interesting world of watches. ‘Looking at these interlocking gears working ingeniously, I was deeply attracted. Afterwards, I saw such a precise movement in the watch, and it made me feel that a brand new world was opened.’ After graduating from high school. Roger Dubuy chose to study at the Geneva Watch School.

I recall to this day, Mr. Du Bi still thinks that his favorite watch is the first watch assembled and manufactured by himself during apprenticeship. ‘It’s a very simple watch. For me as a teenager, it feels very novel to gather all kinds of parts together. I remember that the scale on the dial was drawn by myself.’

After that, Dubi’s development in the watch industry was particularly critical. He first worked in Geneva for 4 years assembling and repairing watches, and then for 9 years for Longines after-sales service. In 1966, he completed an important transition and came to Patek Philippe’s complex movement department to take charge of research and development for 14 years. In 1981, Mr. Dubie left this prestigious watchmaking family to become an independent watch repairing craftsman. At the beginning of the 1980s, it was the period when the Swiss watch and clock was hit hard by the quartz crisis, but in that period, Mr. Dubey still laid a solid foundation for creating his own brand later: the double retrograde perpetual calendar.

‘The case design of this watch is an irregular square, and many people were surprised by it when it was launched. This is also the first watch with a perpetual calendar function. And it is in the way of indicating time It’s very different from the traditional: the double retrograde display of the date and the week, which is a very rare design, using a new template I created. ‘This watch made Roger Dubuis famous and pioneered later The brand has laid the foundation.

 Roger Dubuis silicon balance watch

Tradition flows in my blood

At the Geneva watch exhibition in 2013, a huge golden sculpture was hung in the center of Roger Dubuis’s exhibition hall. He swooped down and grabbed a man with a golden key in his claw. ‘Imprint’, and what we do know is that Roger Dubuis is the only watchmaking brand in the world today that complies with the ‘Imprint of Geneva’.

In 1886, in order to guarantee the origin of watches and the skills of watchmakers, the Geneva Watch Association promulgated the Geneva Law, and this key aesthetic and craftsmanship standard of the Geneva Seal originated from this law . At the end of 2011, the ‘Geneva Mark New Standard’ was introduced, which put forward strict requirements for each component of the movement in more detail. In order to meet this standard, Roger Dubuis with an annual output of 4,500 had to devote more than 40% of its energy to the production and development of the movement. This also makes one wonder, why did the founder make such a decision, in order to one day make Roger Dubuis different from other brands?

Obviously, the old gentleman did not consider such a long-term at all. His idea was summarized in one sentence: ‘The Geneva Seal exists in my blood.’ In other words, this is not a multiple choice question. Roger Dubuy has lived in the Geneva region since he was a child. His watch factory was also established here. He inherited the spirit of watchmaking in Geneva: ‘From the education of the watch school I have accepted, the traditional watchmaking philosophy of pursuing professional excellence. And in terms of experience in the Patek Philippe watch factory, all movements must do this. I can’t go from a high standard to a low standard. I must follow it all the way. ‘

Watch factory
Dubius reached retirement age in 2003. After one year as a company consultant, he engaged in the education and promotion of watch and clock crafts. In 2008, Richemont bought the brand, and Du Bi was also invited to return to the watch industry as a consultant and brand ambassador, ‘somewhat like the’ Godfather ‘of watchmakers.’ Under the guidance of Dupper, several extra timepieces were added to the 2013 Geneva watch exhibition hall. The most popular one is the Excalibur Quatuor silicon watch. As the name suggests, this is the world’s first silicon watch with four balance springs. Due to the effect of gravity, as the wrist swings, the position of the watch changes continuously, which results in running errors. Although the tourbillon can partially solve this problem, the four balance springs of the Excalibur Quatuor can instantly offset the gravity of the tourbillon for one minute. This unprecedented innovation made Roger Dubuis stand out at the Geneva watch fair. When asked how to evaluate his own brand, the watchmaker said, ‘I always remain humble, but also proud of myself-more than 30 movements developed in 16 years are enough to illustrate the problem. A flash of life Ephemeral, and now I’m approaching the end, but to ask me how I got there, I can’t say … maybe you can ask time. ‘

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